The Next Food Network...Star?

I've been seeing advertisements for the next season of Food Network's version of American Idol. In this show, Bobby Flay - who has turned himself into a FN whore, I'm sad to say - hosts and judges (along with guest judges who include Rachael Ray, gag) a number of contestants who are competing to win their own show on TV.

Previous winners of this show include Guy Fieri. While he's certainly not as bad as Sandra Lee, Rachael Ray, and that lot - he seems genuinely personable, and genuine is indeed a rare trait on the FN - he isn't much of a cook. In an episode of Dinner: Impossible, which I used to like before I found out that chef Robert Irvine is a fraud, Guy pulled a host of frat-boy tricks in order to win the competition, including turning off Irvine's gas stoves and using pre-breaded, frozen chicken tenders and pizza in his "dishes" for the target audience, a group of children. His "cooking show," Guy's Big Bite, involves him making huge meals, and his traveling show Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives shows him giddily shoving entire kielbasas into his sizeable mouth while proclaiming "That is capital-K crunchy." (No, that's not a typo.) While this is certainly media savvy, it's not cuisine, and it's not really talent that I think should be broadcast. I could "cook" with chicken nuggets and stuff my face with 1-pound burgers. I want to watch cooks on TV who show me how to do things I don't already know.

But even that clear lack of culinary skill and/or training is not the thing that irks me most about The Next Food Network Star. In one advertisement, the contestants are being shown getting makeovers as they bounce towards the kitchen: their hair is magically cut, their style magically resembles Ted Allen's, and their makeup is flawless. They're all very attractive people, well-lit, and smiley. But I get the feeling that this show is more about how these people present themselves than any actual talent (very much like American Idol). That would certainly be consistent with the Food Network, which latches onto marketing ploys like Paula Deen's love of butter and hyperbolize them until their hosts become caricatures of themselves. I used to like Paula Deen too, before the FN gave her a "makeover" and turned her into a lascivious grandma who can't put enough butter into anything and makes googly-eyes at her young male guests.

What saddens me is that I don't think FN is looking for a "star" chef a la Mario Batali or Martin Yan, someone who knows how to cook delicious and elegant food and understands the traditions behind those dishes, as well as how to cook them. I think they're looking for another Rachael Ray, someone who can pose in FHM and look cute and talk loudly and cook gimmicky meals that have next to no nutritional value, but hey, they're ready in under thirty minutes or they're a "big bite." I guess that makes for entertainment, but I'm watching for the food. Or I was.

Now, just about the only saving grace of the Food Network is Alton Brown (and the reruns of Tony Bourdain's "A Cook's Tour" that FN optioned). Let's hope they don't try to make him over too.